Four remarkable stays that bring the spirit of the Land of Kings to life
In Rajasthan, the right stay becomes a quiet beginning to the day, a place to retreat to when the afternoon heat sets in, and somewhere to return to after a day spent discovering the landscapes, history and culture of the state. Here, hotels and retreats rarely feel separate from their surroundings. Many, including contemporary properties, are rooted in the architecture, traditions and stories of the land, offering a more intimate way to experience Rajasthan’s many moods.
Samode Haveli, Jaipur
Located in the heart of Old Jaipur, Samode Haveli offers a peaceful retreat within easy reach of some of the city’s most celebrated sights, including the Hawa Mahal, City Palace and Jantar Mantar. The 225-year-old haveli was originally built as a city retreat for the Royal Family, whose descendants still live within its walls. Today, its courtyards and rooms retain the character of another era, with hand-painted frescoes stretching from floor to ceiling, delicate mirrorwork in Mughal-inspired patterns, intimate alcoves and antique furniture lending each space its own character.
Here, guided walks through the neighbourhood offer glimpses of local markets and everyday Jaipur, while back at the property, courtyard views and the poolside bar provide quieter moments. As the sun begins to set, the rooftop terrace offers beautiful views across the city, with Jaipur’s terracotta-hued buildings glowing in the evening light. The kitchen brings Rajasthan’s culinary heritage to the table, with traditional dishes including Laal Maas, Junglee Maas and Khad Murgh, inspired by the state’s historic hunting cuisine. Samode Haveli also has something particularly special within its walls: its own bawri, or stepwell, built at the same time as the haveli and once used for drinking water and irrigation. After dark, hundreds of diyas illuminate the stepwell, transforming it into an atmospheric reminder of the world from which the haveli emerged.
Utsav Camp, Sariska
About two and a half hours from Jaipur, Utsav Camp Sariska sits among boulders, deciduous forests and the rugged landscape of the Aravalli hills. The setting is wonderfully removed from city life, with the grasslands, dry forests and rocky terrain of the Sariska region creating a natural backdrop for a slower kind of stay. The surrounding wilderness can be experienced alongside an expert naturalist, with guided excursions through Tehla offering a closer understanding of the area’s flora, fauna and landscapes.
Birdwatching is another highlight, with excursions into the Sariska region offering opportunities to spot the area’s remarkable birdlife in its natural surroundings. Back at the camp, the pace becomes gentler. A leisurely high tea brings together Indian and international delicacies, while evenings unfold beneath the Aravallis. There is the option of a swim under the stars, followed by dinner surrounded by the quiet sounds of the wilderness. At Utsav Camp, Rajasthan reveals a different side of itself, less about palaces and forts and more about the landscapes that have shaped the state for centuries.
Mihir Garh, Jodhpur
Forty-five minutes south of Jodhpur, Mihir Garh appears almost like a mirage in the semi-desert wilderness: a small, elegant fortress rising from a sand dune in the Thar. Its architecture and interiors draw deeply from the region, with handwoven kilims, embroidered cushions, appliqué curtains and traditional Lippan art adding warmth and character.
The surrounding landscape is central to the experience, from village safaris and rides on the indigenous Marwari horse to al fresco breakfasts and royal-style picnics beside a lake. Rajasthan’s culinary traditions are equally woven into the stay, with dishes such as raan, chicken pilaf and gatta, alongside workshops that bring traditional recipes to life.
As evening arrives, Mihir Garh becomes particularly atmospheric. Candles illuminate the walls, braziers glow beside al fresco dining tables and the infinity pool looks out towards the desert. Mughal-inspired battlements frame the horizon, while courtyards, fountains and the vast night sky create a sense of stillness that feels wonderfully removed from the modern world. The spa, set within a walled garden and inspired by the region’s rural arts, continues this connection to place, with organic and Ayurvedic treatments drawing on desert ingredients and healing herbs.
Chunda Shikar Oudi, Udaipur
Outside Udaipur, across 400 acres of private forest, Chunda Shikar Oudi offers yet another expression of Rajasthan. Once a 300-year-old hunting lodge, or shikar oudi, belonging to the Bathera family, a noble family of Mewar, the property brings together the region’s aristocratic heritage and its wild, natural landscape.
Here, the experience is less about a packed schedule and more about reconnecting with the outdoors. Fishing, birdwatching and stargazing offer quieter ways to experience the forest, while nature trails and Jeep safaris bring the surrounding landscape and its wildlife into focus. Evening safaris are particularly unusual, made possible by the property’s private forest setting.
Food, too, has a strong sense of place. A poolside breakfast catches the warmth of the morning sun, while traditional Mewar thalis celebrate the region’s culinary traditions. Seasonal ingredients, including white corn and hand-churned ghee, find their way into the kitchen, alongside specialities such as Paniya, a traditional roti prepared between Palaash leaves, and gattas.
And despite its sense of seclusion, Chunda Shikar Oudi is less than 30 minutes by car from Udaipur airport, making it an easy addition to a longer Rajasthan journey or a peaceful place to end the journey before heading home.