When you think of a holiday in India, Ayurveda is likely to be one of the first things that comes to mind. But experiencing it in India can be about much more than a treatment or a wellness programme. It can be found in the food on the table, the rhythm of the day, time spent outdoors, the way movement and rest are balanced, and the traditional knowledge passed down through generations. Niraamaya brings these elements together through experienced Ayurvedic doctors, skilled therapists, yoga practitioners and chefs, creating personalised experiences that sit naturally within the journey.
At the heart of this 9-day travel itinerary is Ayurveda, and the route begins in Thiruvananthapuram before continuing to the Arabian Sea at Kovalam, the waterways and paddy fields of Kumarakom, and finally the cardamom-covered hills of Thekkady. The journey then ends with a night in Kochi before the flight home. Along the way, there are spice plantations and forest trails, boat rides and village life, temples and traditional performances, with Ayurveda providing a thread that runs quietly through it all.
Three Niraamaya retreats form the heart of the route: Surya Samudra in Kovalam, Backwaters & Beyond in Kumarakom, and Cardamom Club in Thekkady. Each has its own setting and character, so the journey feels like a progression through very different landscapes rather than simply a series of resort stays.
Day 1: Arriving in Thiruvananthapuram and travelling to Kovalam
Thiruvananthapuram makes a natural starting point for this journey. From the airport, take a taxi to Kovalam, a short drive that brings you quickly from the city to the coast.
At Niraamaya Retreats Surya Samudra, the setting immediately changes the rhythm of the journey. Perched beside the Arabian Sea, the retreat is surrounded by tropical greenery and has access to secluded beaches. After arriving, there is time to settle in, explore the property or simply take in the sea views before dinner.
The evening can be spent at Essence, where pan-Asian specialities are served, or at Café Samsara for all-day dining.
Day 2: A morning by the Arabian Sea
Day 2 begins with a 60-minute sunrise yoga session before breakfast. The morning can then unfold at an easy pace, with time to walk along the beach, relax at the retreat or enjoy an Ayurvedic treatment with Niraamaya’s experts.
Later, a cruise through the backwaters offers another perspective on Kerala, passing coconut groves and mangroves. In the evening, Kathakali brings one of Kerala’s best-known performing arts to life, with its elaborate costumes, expressive movements and storytelling.
Dinner brings an especially local touch. There is an opportunity to accompany the chefs to the dock and select a fish to be prepared for the evening meal, bringing the coastal setting directly to the table.
Day 3: From Kovalam to the waterways of Kumarakom
After breakfast, check out of Niraamaya Retreats Surya Samudra and take a taxi to Niraamaya Retreats Backwaters & Beyond in Kumarakom. The journey takes approximately four and a half hours and covers around 179 kilometres. As the coast gives way to the waterways and paddy fields around Vembanad Lake, the landscape gradually changes again.
Set beside the lake, the retreat makes the waterways an ever-present part of the stay. Once you arrive at Niraamaya Retreats Backwaters & Beyond, take some time to settle in before heading to the lakeside Café Samsara for lunch, where local produce, seafood and international dishes come together. The afternoon can then be devoted to an Ayurvedic treatment, offering a chance to unwind after the journey from Kovalam.
Come evening, a traditional shikara ride offers an opportunity to see Kumarakom from the water. As the boat moves through the backwaters, there are glimpses of paddy fields and village life. Here, the waterways are more than a scenic backdrop; they are part of the landscape in which everyday life unfolds.
Day 4: A quieter side of Kerala
The next day begins with a morning yoga session, followed by a visit to Aruvikkal Sree Shiva Subrahmanya Swami Temple, known for its peaceful setting and traditional Kerala architecture. Afterwards, return to the retreat for lunch and some time to rest before the afternoon’s activities.
Later, head to the kitchen for a wellness cooking session that explores the Ayurvedic approach to food and the role it can play in everyday wellbeing. Rather than simply hearing about the connection between food and health, you can see how these principles translate into the preparation of everyday meals, including the small changes that can make a difference to what goes on your plate.
Day 5: Birds, bunds and the life of the lake
Today offers another chance to experience Kumarakom at your own pace. Those who enjoy being outdoors can take a walk beside the lake and look out for its birdlife, while anyone seeking a quieter morning can meditate beside the water.
The backwaters are particularly rewarding early in the day and towards sunset, when birdlife becomes easier to spot and the changing light gives the landscape a different character.
Later, a visit to Thanneermukkom Bund reveals another aspect of life around Vembanad Lake. One of India’s largest mud regulators, the structure separates the saline waters of Vembanad Lake from the freshwater canals and offers broad views across the surrounding waterways.
Back at the retreat, there is time for a spa treatment before the evening’s cultural performance. A Bharatanatyam performance, followed by dinner, offers a fitting close to the day, bringing together Kerala’s artistic traditions and the pleasures of the evening.
Day 6: From the backwaters to the Cardamom Hills
After breakfast, check out of Niraamaya Retreats Backwaters & Beyond and take a taxi to Niraamaya Retreats Cardamom Club, Thekkady. The journey takes around three and a half hours and covers approximately 122 kilometres. As you leave the waterways of Kumarakom behind, the road gradually climbs towards the Western Ghats, with the landscape becoming greener and more wooded.
At Niraamaya Retreats Cardamom Club, Thekkady, cardamom plantations and forest surround the retreat, with the wilderness of Periyar close by. After the journey, there is time to settle in and unwind before dinner at Café Samsara, where local specialities sit alongside international dishes.
Day 7: Into the wild
The day begins among the sounds of the Western Ghats. A sunrise yoga session offers a gentle start, with simple movements suitable for beginners as well as those already familiar with the practice.
There is also plenty to discover without leaving the retreat. Around the property, 70 species of birds have been recorded, almost half of them endemic to the Western Ghats. For anyone who enjoys birdwatching, even a quiet morning can reveal something new.
After breakfast, a jeep safari through Thekkady’s forests offers a closer look at the surrounding wilderness. Experienced guides and drivers lead the excursion into the surrounding terrain, where elephants, gaurs, birds and, with luck, other wildlife may appear among the trees.
Later in the day, the region’s performing arts offer another way to connect with Kerala’s culture. Choose between Kathakali, an elaborate form of dance-drama, and Kalaripayattu, Kerala’s ancient martial art, for an evening encounter with two very different traditions.
Dinner at Café Samsara brings the day to a close.
Day 8: Tea, spices and Periyar Lake
If the previous day was about the forest, today reveals another side of Thekkady: its agricultural landscape. The morning can begin beside Periyar Lake, either with the 7.30am boat ride or simply from the lakeshore. Those who prefer a quieter start can sit by the water and enjoy the surroundings before breakfast.
Later, the tea and spice plantations offer a glimpse into some of the crops that have long been associated with Kerala. Cardamom, pepper, cinnamon and cloves are cultivated here, and plantation workers explain how they are grown and harvested. The tea bushes stretch away in neat rows, while the spices offer a closer look at the agricultural traditions that have shaped this part of Kerala. It is also an opportunity to see the journey from plant to spice shelf or teacup.
Back at the retreat, Kerala specialities such as karimeen, appam with stew and a traditional thali offer plenty of choice for dinner.
Day 9: From Thekkady to Kochi
After breakfast, leave Thekkady and travel by road to Kochi, the final stop on the journey. The drive takes about five hours, with the landscape gradually changing as the hills give way to the plains and the city.
Once in Kochi, spend the afternoon exploring some of the city’s older streets, traditional architecture and waterfront, or simply take time to relax after the journey. This final evening provides a gentle transition from the quieter landscapes of Kerala to the city before the return flight.
From the Arabian Sea at Kovalam, through the waterways of Kumarakom and into the forests and spice plantations of Thekkady, the route brings together several distinct landscapes of South India. What connects them is not simply Ayurveda, but a way of travelling that leaves room for different experiences to unfold: coastal life, the backwaters, wildlife in the Western Ghats, traditional food, temples, classical performances and the changing landscape of Kerala.